Clear Varnish onto emulsion painted plantpots - advice needed.?

Hi,


Ive painted 3 large plant pots with emulsion, and having gone to varnish them (to waterproof the emulsion) noticed that the varnish (although clear matt bush on) changes the colour significantly - taking them from pale pastel colours to garishly bright - this has not altered even when dry.


Luckely I did small patch tests on the inside of the plant pots so they are not ruined. Any suggestion on a brand (UK) of varnish that wont do this , or other method to protect the paint? The pots are to go outside.


Thank you


RachelClear Varnish onto emulsion painted plantpots - advice needed.?
The outside is not the problem. The moisture comes from the soil, the plant, and the water you use.





To keep the paint on you have to seal the inside.

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I sprayed damar varnish on my oil painting about three days ago and it hasn't dried yet,?

moreover all the dust has stuck on to the varnish on the painting making it worse.how do i remove the dust or what should i doI sprayed damar varnish on my oil painting about three days ago and it hasn't dried yet,?
I would guess that the reason the varnish is not dry yet is because the oil paint was not completely dry (do not varnish a painting less than six months old), you used too much varnish, or the ingredients of the varnish mixture were not in correct proportions (if you made it yourself). And, of course, the longer the varnish is wet and exposed to dust, the more dust collects on the painting surface.





I don't know how you can remove the dust without removing at least some of the varnish. I would wait a week or and see if the varnish does dry. If it does dry, then a very light coat of diluted varnish applied with a soft brush might stick down the dust particles to the surface. Otherwise, you might consider removing the varnish.





It is a very sticky, messy job to remove damar. I have never done it myself, but have heard that a soft cloth with either mineral spirits or turpentine can be used. Winsor %26amp; Newton's English Distilled Turpentine is a good quality choice.





You can get more information about how to use and remove damar at:


http://www.winsornewton.com/main.aspx?Pa鈥?/a>I sprayed damar varnish on my oil painting about three days ago and it hasn't dried yet,?
Damar vanish takes a very long time to dry. The best way to apply it is to wait until your oil painting is dry, then add multiple, very thin layers of the vanish, waiting on the next application until the last layer is fully dried. This whole process will take a few days (maybe more) but you will be less likely to have a think, unctuous layer that will not dry fully for over a week. Also, there is no way to fully prevent the dust from sticking except to varnish your piece in a place with good ventilation (indoors with an air filter) and perhaps to find a way to tent your painting with a heavy cloth (this will slow the dry time, though).





As for your current problem, there is nothing you can do except to wait it out for your varnish to dry. The dust removal is going to be tricky. You will need to very gently wipe the varnish with methylated spirits until you get the dust off using a lightly, moistened wool/cotton pad (pick one that will not leave fibers). This will be removing the varnish and has the potential to ruin your painting if you are not VERY careful. To stop the spirit residue from continuing to dissolve your painting, you will need to go back over the cleaned arears immediatly with another wool/cotton pad that has a bit of turpentine and linseed oil on it. After you have the dust removed and the painting is fully dry again, try one more light coat of the damar varnish to finish it up. This whole procedure is not going to be easy and it is something that a professional art restorer would normally do, but if you still want to give it a shot, go for it.


Good luck!!
Hi,





IF and I repeat IF your painting had dried for at least 6 months, you can remove your varnish with turpentine.


I've done this before using a kitchen paper towell soaked with turps.


It must be soaked as not to get stucked when rubbing off the varnish.


Of course that during the process one must pay attention to eventual bleeding of paint.


Keep the canvas vertical and when finished use a hairdryer (cold) or take it outside so that any remaining turps evaporates from the surface.


I guess it's better to wait about a month to varnish again.





Kind regards,





Jos茅 (from Hushcolours)
I've brushed on damar varnish on my painting after six month of letting the painting dry but have never sprayed it on. I didn't encounter any problems with that method. In fact it dries to the touch by the next day. If you used the can type, were there any special instructions listed on the can label. Did you perhaps have to wait between coats, shake the can well, wait for the painting to dry, etc. My paintings sometimes pick up lint and i usually wait for it to dry before attempting to remove it. To do this i use a roller type lint remover.

How do you tell if a 'real' oil painting from a varnished print laid onto canvas?

Most artists could quickly tell you by simply looking at it. This ability comes from experience and years of practice.





But here is a very quick and completely reliable way for a non-artist or non-arts professional person to tell:





Look at the edge of the canvas. The canvas is stretched on stretcher boards and the edge of the canvas bends around the edges of the board. Look at these edges on the canvas.





If the images on the canvas wrap around the turned edges of canvas, if they do so in a uniform way, perfectly coming to the very edge of the turned canvas then it is obviously a print that has been printed on a canvas to look like a real painting.





Artists do not paint perfectly around the sides and edges of the canvas they are working on. Their brush strokes never stop in perfectly uniform manner at the turned edges of a canvas as the canvas wraps aroun d the stretcher bars. Machines stamping out and printing on a pre-cut piece of cloth have perfect edges turned perfectly to wrap around the sides of the stretcher bars.How do you tell if a 'real' oil painting from a varnished print laid onto canvas?
The brush strokes of the varnish would show up the lack of texture on the print.How do you tell if a 'real' oil painting from a varnished print laid onto canvas?
Take a magnifying glass and look closely to see if there are tiny dots on there. Even the best printer leaves dots instead of solid colors.





Also look at the direction of the texture. It should match exactly with the color border.
Hi,





There are professional artists at http://forum.paintyourlife.com/ and they can answer your question in great detail.





Simple post the question in their forum, for free. They are actively seeking questions like yours to answer.





Karl
Many are using china artist...using printed on canvas + repainted it again = FAKE OIL PAINTING !





Take a look by american and britist today museum artist !





Genuine Painting look below





http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem%26amp;ih=012%26amp;sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT%26amp;viewitem=%26amp;item=220099644120%26amp;rd=1%26amp;rd=1
texture, feel an oil painting then a varnished. the oil will be much thicker and smoother
Museums and Art Gallery will be able to tell you if you are still unsure after the above suggestions :)

I varnished an acrylic painting a few months back and now it is starting to yellow.?

Should I stop varnishing my paintings? I'm looking at the long term future. I want my paintings to last for many years. Is it best to leave the canvas just acrylic paints and no varnish? Please, I would love for some advice.I varnished an acrylic painting a few months back and now it is starting to yellow.?
That's past times and not futureI varnished an acrylic painting a few months back and now it is starting to yellow.?
Well, I don't know much about paintings, but I do know that varnish does yellow over time. when applied to wood this is good. One coating that might work for you is Minwax polycrylic. it is crystal clear and as far a my experience goes, it stays that way. I'm not sure how it would inter-react with your paintings but why not try it on an oops canvas first.

Can I do decorative painting on previously finished/varnished antiques?

I have an old dresser, probably from the 30's, that I want to do some decorative painting on. I'm planning to use regular acrylic paints. Do I need to sand the spots I'll be painting and prime them in any way, or can I just paint directly over the old stain and varnish? What kind of sealer should I use on the whole piece when I'm done? I'd like to avoid stripping the whole piece, I like the color and the way it looks, I just want to add to it.Can I do decorative painting on previously finished/varnished antiques?
I never paint over varnished furniture. I always sand it down and prime it.


The parts that get painted (if you want the best look and the best quality finish) need to be sanded, primed, painted, then sealed.


If you want the parts that you paint to have the same kind of finish (like, gloss) you can buy different sheens of sealer. There is, satin finish, semi-gloss and high-gloss. If the unpainted finished wood is not shiny at all you can wax the painted part using paste finishing wax. Minwax brand is good.Can I do decorative painting on previously finished/varnished antiques?
Yes, use the acrylics and then top coat with an oil based poly, preferably a wipe on poly. Zar makes a great wipe on oil based poly. Find a dealer near you. www.ugl.com/zar/...
I'd use oil paints. Most acrylics are not designed to go atop oil-based finishes. Test the dresser to find out what is on there. Denatured alcohol(found out any hardware or paint store) removes latex finishes. Dab some on a cloth and rub a test spot in a discreet spot. if the finish comes off, it's latex, if not oil-based.
You can paint directly over the old finish, and then cover with a clear acrylic when dry.





A word of warning; just make sure that the antique you are painting on isn't some old, valuable antique ~ once you alter the original finish, you'll lower the value significantly.

How can cat spray odor be removed from painted walls and varnished furniture?

Care for 40 'fixed' kitties; have 10 litter pans which are cleaned at least once daily, plus a large outdoor caged area. They have sprayed every wall and furniture surface in the house. The walls and furniture are sprayed down with enzyme cleaner weekly. The water-based paint on walls is bubbling, we don't know if from urine, enzymes, or both. The varnished wood furniture is swelling, rusting, etc. All the cats are in good medical condition. We can not get the urine odor out of the wall paint. Would applying Kilz then repainting with oil-base paint help the situation? How can we 'unswell' wood and veneer finishes? Any serious replies appreciated. (We know all the insulting, funny, and kinky ones, thank you).How can cat spray odor be removed from painted walls and varnished furniture?
The swollen wood and peeling veneer are toast.





Kilz is really meant to stop resin from coming through. Who knows what it would do about odor?





My guess would be that the problem is overcrowding. I know that you can really pack a lot of cats into a small space, but I think there must be consequences to that. I would guess that the problem is feline sociology, not feline scent.





I bet you rescue strays. Some of your strays were probably toms with well-established spray habits. I'm not optimistic about your being able to fix this problem without training specific cats.How can cat spray odor be removed from painted walls and varnished furniture?
vinegar Dont be afraid to spray its and wont stain next day u will surprised

Questions about varnishing a finished painting?

Is varnishing a way of preserving the painting, how do you do it, and can you varnish acrylic paintings?Questions about varnishing a finished painting?
Yes and yes. Varnish is put as a coat or layer of see through material that preserves the painting underneath it. For oil painting wait till the painting is dry than put couple coats on it with a brush. For acrylic paintings lot of artists use varnish because it makes it look like oil painting though it is really not needed for acrylic paintings to protect it. Varnish is sometimes used as medium when mixed with turps and linseed oil. There are quite a few kinds of varnishes and some of them you can use right way when the painting is dry to touch and some of them have to be used when paintings are completely dry.


Check this web site


http://www.painting.about.com/cs/paintin鈥?/a>Questions about varnishing a finished painting?
I did a quick search and it appears a similar question was asked and answered on ';Yahoo! Answers.'; See this link http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?鈥?/a> .





Another helpful link that explains the varnishing process is http://painting.about.com/od/paintingfor鈥?/a> . Check out http://www.liquitex.com/techniques/liqui鈥?/a> .





The information on the link pages concurs with my personal experience varnishing paintings. The paintings are better preserved by protecting the paint from dust, smoke, and other pollutants.





Acrylic paintings can and should be varnished. Varnish damaged by pollutants should be removed per the manufacturer's recommendations. The painting can then be re-varnished.





The following text was copied from ';The Varnished Truth.'; The .pdf document can be found at http://www.liquitex.com/educational/Varn鈥?/a> .





';Why varnish?





It makes sense why most artists don鈥檛 varnish their acrylic paintings. After all, the surface dries quickly to a durable surface. It鈥檚 flexible. It can be wiped clean. So, acrylics don鈥檛


need that extra protection like oil paintings, right? Wrong.





While it鈥檚 true that acrylics dry fast to a durable and flexible film, there a number of compelling and irresistible reasons for varnishing. First and foremost is that acrylic paint films, even when fully dry, remain porous. This means that any cigarette smoke, atmospheric pollution, grubby fingerprints, and everyday dirt and dust that comes in contact with your painting surface is subject to becoming part of the paint film. While it may not seem like much over a week or a month, the accumulation of grime within the paint film adds up over the


course of years. Varnishing is one way to thwart the build up of that environmental grime.


Here are some other great reasons to varnish:


鈥?Protection against surface abrasion during shipping or exhibition


鈥?Boost the brightness and color saturation


鈥?Adjust and unify the surface sheen to gloss, matte or semi-gloss.


鈥?Protect colors from ultraviolet light. Any varnish will afford some protection but those with UV inhibitors offer extended protection from color fading.


鈥?Allow for easy cleaning without fear of removing the paint film.';





The final decision rests with the artist who may or may not be concerned with the longevity of his or her creations.





If you do varnish an acrylic painting, make sure you follow the manufacturer's direction with regard to the number of days the painting should be allowed to dry.





Recommendations for waiting to varnish an oil painting can vary from 3 months to 6 months to a year, partly depending upon whether the local climate is hot or cool, dry or humid.
To fully understand varnishing of completed paintings it is important to know why it is done with oil paintings and only sometimes with acrylic paintings.





The two purposes for varnishing a completed oil painting are:





1. Protection from dirt and, to some extent, UV rays. The coating is applied in such a way so it can be removed later and a new coating applied. Dirt builds up and the varnish itself yellows over time. This is designed to be refreshed.





2. To create a uniform finish. Due to the varying characteristics between the different pigments used in each color of the painting, the mixtures dry with varying degrees of shine. Some areas ';sink in'; which means they dry flat without any shine. These variations cause the colors to appear incorrect which, in turn, distracts and distorts the perception of the composition. The varnish creates a uniform satin, matte or gloss surface finish and, in effect, dresses up the overall look of the art.





The final varnish is applied after the painting has completely dried. This typically take 6 months. Oil paint does not dry though evaporation, it oxidizes and dries from within. It is more accurately described as ';cured'; rather than dried. A final varnish should not be applied during the curing stage because the painting needs to breath, actually it is more like exhale as it releases gases. A special varnish called a retouch varnish can be sprayed on wet paintings during this curing stage when it is important to present the painting with a uniform shine. A retouch varnish is a different type of varnish and it allows the breathing during the cure stage to continue.





As for acrylic varnishing, the purpose for it is UV protection and surface uniformity. Acrylic does not need to be varnished and a painting can be cleaned periodically without one, unlike oil paintings. There are mineral spirit varnishes for acrylic as well as polymer based varnishes. The oil based varnish is stronger.


http://www.goldenpaints.com/products/var鈥?/a>
Varnish, A protective liquid or spray coating used as a finish coat on oil paintings. I have never heard of applying a varnish to acrylics. I paint with oils and have for over 25 years but I don't use varnish at all and my paintings are fine.





Years ago I used to do some art restoration work. The majority of the time that involved removing the varnish because of yellowing and darkening to the point you could not see or fully appreciate the artwork. I don't like using varnish at all and don't recommend it.





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