I think most people probably just use the cheapest thing, which would be a permanent ';white glue'; (like Elmers GlueAll) thinned down with water about 3 or 4 to 1. When a permanent white glue dries, it will act as a sealant for the air-dry clay as well as leaving a clear and shiny finish.
You can actually use almost any clear-drying (or clear-curing) liquid you can find though.
Here are some other possibilities (you'd want to make sure you got the Gloss version of any of these if there is a range to choose from):
...clear fingernail polish
...clear polyurethane (hardware stores, etc.)
...clear floor polishes, like Mop 'N Glo or Pledge with Future Shine (older name, Future)
...2-part epoxy resins (Envirotex Lite, etc) ...though resins are more work
The following ones will work fine but won't be *quite* as resistant to later scratching from stress or clouding from moisture as those first ones:
...decoupage mediums (Royal Coat, ModPodge)... or the thinned white glue mentioned above which is the same thing
...various clear ';sealers/varnishes'; at art or craft stores
...clear ';acrylic mediums'; at art or craft stores (intended to mix into acrylic paints to change their characteristics)
...various clear spray sealers at art/craft/hardware stores
You may want or need to use more than one coat for the best and longest protection... be sure to let any of those dry before adding more coats.
If you instead *paint* with a permanent paint, that will also seal the clay and no clear sealer necessary. Generally acrylic paints are used (or latex) since they are permanent (but other permanent paints could be used).
If the paint you choose doesn't leave a shiny finish though and you want one, just add a coat of one of the clear finishes above over it.
More info on sealing salt dough (and other air-dry clays, etc.) here:
http://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+sa鈥?/a>
HTH,
Diane B.
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